January 24. 2002

I recently made a long and anticipated first visit to Christmas Island. I stayed at Big Eddie's Lodge. I had heard stories of the outstanding fishing from my father who first visited the island in the early 1980,s and fished there many times up to 1996.

Based on his stories, the fishing adventures of other anglers, and the literature from outfitters, I recommended the trip to my four friends, all experienced fly fishermen, and subsequently organized and booked the trip.

Sadly, our actual experience fell far short of expectations. We saw few fish, even with Eddie's most experienced guides, and we saw few bonefish over three pounds. My best day was eleven, and a man making his 15th trip landed 12 bonefish on his best day. My companions fared little better.

While disappointed, we ascribed our misfortune to the vagaries of fishing.

However, on our departure day, I had a revealing conversation with an American who had stayed in London, the main town in Christmas Island, with the local Catholic priest. The priest, a learned Frenchman who had lived on the island for 36 years, reported widespread netting of bonefish amounting, in his words, to "tons of bonefish", at the mouth of London Channel, the only point of entrance and egress for spawning fish. This netting had been steadily increasing over the past 5-6 years as more people from neighboring islands (particularly Tarawa) immigrated to Christmas Island seeking lower cost living and better fishing. He said the island's population had more than doubled during that time. (During my trip I asked a guide if anyone ever ate bonefish. He replied "no").

The priest says government officials are aware of the netting but not willing to do anything about it, in spite of a government-funded study by an economic development advisor which cautioned against the netting and its long term implications for the local economy.

Christmas Island is a beautiful place. Walking the storied flats a moving and wonderful experience. However, I probably will not return soon because of the declining state of the fishery, and will not recommend the fishing experience to others.

Sincerely,

Ewing Philbin, California

Click here to see more Christmas Island

CST 1010581-10